Memory cards are an important part of digital photography. Cards are rated by the speed at which they can transfer data from the camera buffer to the card. A faster transfer rate means you can shoot faster for a longer time before the camera warns you that it is busy and will not take any more images until enough space clears in the camera buffer. For casual snap shooting, speed is not as important as shooting action sports.
If your camera does video, then the faster card can be a big plus. With my 7d MK2 I have to use a high speed card for video, otherwise the clips are very short. With the high speed card I can shoot up to 30 minutes of video. So if you have tried shooting video with your DSLR, and your camera is telling you that video has been halted, after a very short time, check the card size and speed. The cards I use can record 120MB/second. These are the Sandisk Extreme cards.
Happy shooting
Dave
Monday, February 27, 2017
Monday, February 20, 2017
Using a Speedlight
Speedlights are compact and portable sources of light. Being battery powered is a plus on location. They work in conjunction with your cameras exposure system, if they are TTL compatible .
When shopping for a speedlight (flash) to use with your camera you will find there are many options and a wide range of prices. Prices range from less than $100 to $600. There are flashes from the camera manufacturer and third party flashes designed to be used with your camera. When shopping for a flash, read the description carefully, as some third party units do not function fully automatically with your cameras exposure system. (Hence a very low price) The brand name units are designed to integrate fully with your camera and are very easy to use. There are third party flashes that fully integrate with your camera and are considerably cheaper than the brand name. For example the Canon 600 flash is about $600, the Yongnou flash, comparable to the Canon 600, is less than $200, It has all the features of the Canon, at 1/3 rd the price. Bower and Neewer are other brands to look at if you are interested in a flash for your camera.
The main difference between the brand name flashes, besides price, is the quality of the build. The brand name units are usually more ruggedly built for heavy use and will last a long time. The third party units work well, but are not generally as well built. So if you are a heavy duty user you might want to stick with the brand name flash. For most light duty users the third party units should be fine. As a side note some pros are purchasing 3 of the third party units and consider them disposable, so if they drop one in the lake or it falls off the camera and breaks, it is only a $200 loss, not a $600 one. Also the major brands have repair centers to repair broken or damaged units.
Evaluate your use of the flash, your budget and decide which one is best for you.
Check them out and if you have questions or want some help choosing one you can contact me.
dpetrick@icloud.com
When shopping for a speedlight (flash) to use with your camera you will find there are many options and a wide range of prices. Prices range from less than $100 to $600. There are flashes from the camera manufacturer and third party flashes designed to be used with your camera. When shopping for a flash, read the description carefully, as some third party units do not function fully automatically with your cameras exposure system. (Hence a very low price) The brand name units are designed to integrate fully with your camera and are very easy to use. There are third party flashes that fully integrate with your camera and are considerably cheaper than the brand name. For example the Canon 600 flash is about $600, the Yongnou flash, comparable to the Canon 600, is less than $200, It has all the features of the Canon, at 1/3 rd the price. Bower and Neewer are other brands to look at if you are interested in a flash for your camera.
The main difference between the brand name flashes, besides price, is the quality of the build. The brand name units are usually more ruggedly built for heavy use and will last a long time. The third party units work well, but are not generally as well built. So if you are a heavy duty user you might want to stick with the brand name flash. For most light duty users the third party units should be fine. As a side note some pros are purchasing 3 of the third party units and consider them disposable, so if they drop one in the lake or it falls off the camera and breaks, it is only a $200 loss, not a $600 one. Also the major brands have repair centers to repair broken or damaged units.
Evaluate your use of the flash, your budget and decide which one is best for you.
Check them out and if you have questions or want some help choosing one you can contact me.
dpetrick@icloud.com
Sunday, February 19, 2017
Big Spirit Lake Shoreline
With the warm weather the ice on the lakes is getting darker, and more colorful. I took some time to create a few images along the shore of Big Spirit Lake today.
It is always fun to get out and look for images.
Friday, February 17, 2017
It has been a busy 3 days. 3 basketball games in 2 days and staff photos today. One more basketball game Saturday afternoon. Having a efficient workflow is essential to keeping up with a busy schedule. I use Lightroom to process images.
I use Image Capture to download files to a folder/subfolder for the event. Main folder is Event Name and Date the subfolder is named Unedited.
I open Lightroom, Export and click add to bring the existing files into Lightroom.
My first pass through the images is flagging the ones I want to edit. Simply I go to full screen mode and star the images I want to edit. Then I have Lightroom filter only the starred images and begin editing. For new work the only things adjusted are Exposure, Cropping, Highlights, Shadows, Contrast and Clarity.
In the Detail tab I do some Noise reduction (if shot at high ISO) and some sharpening.
Finally images are Exported to a folder, with in the event folder, named Selected. The files from this folder are uploaded and the link shared with the publication. They receive a passcode to download files.
I use Image Capture to download files to a folder/subfolder for the event. Main folder is Event Name and Date the subfolder is named Unedited.
I open Lightroom, Export and click add to bring the existing files into Lightroom.
My first pass through the images is flagging the ones I want to edit. Simply I go to full screen mode and star the images I want to edit. Then I have Lightroom filter only the starred images and begin editing. For new work the only things adjusted are Exposure, Cropping, Highlights, Shadows, Contrast and Clarity.
In the Detail tab I do some Noise reduction (if shot at high ISO) and some sharpening.
Finally images are Exported to a folder, with in the event folder, named Selected. The files from this folder are uploaded and the link shared with the publication. They receive a passcode to download files.
GTRA vs GLR
H-LP vs West Sioux
Tuesday, February 14, 2017
A Common Question I get
One thing I get asked a lot is, "Why are my indoor sports images blurry?" When I take a look at their camera settings, they are usually using Sports or Action setting. When checking the ISO often it is low, like 200 or 400. When I shoot basketball I am at 1/500 second shutter speed, Auto ISO (Usually the ISO falls between 1600-4000) TV mode (On Canon, S Mode on Nikon). This usually means the lens is at f 2.8 - 4. Focus is AI Servo (Servo on Nikon) Drive on continuous High (up to 10 frames a second on the 7d MK2. I use the central block of focus points and Evaluative metering.
I actually shoot JPEG for sports, because I can run longer bursts, than shooting RAW.
I actually shoot JPEG for sports, because I can run longer bursts, than shooting RAW.
Usually the issue causing the unsharp images is the kit lens that came with the camera. It is not that the lens is a bad lens, it is just not the right tool for indoor action images. These lenses are usually f 4-5.6 variable, mean as you zoom to longer focal lengths the f stop gets smaller, which means the shutter speed slows down slow enough to cause subject movement to show in the images. The solution to this is to use "fast" glass. This means to use a f1.8 or 2.8 non variable f stop lens. The issue with these lenses is that they are expensive, generally $1000 and up, which makes them impractical for casual photographers.
There are some reasonably price options, the 85mm 1.8 is around $400-$500 new, and is a great short telephoto for basketball and other indoor sports, if you are in one of the lower rows near the basket. A 24-70 f2.8 is a great lens, if you are close to the basket.
I use a 28-70 f2.8, a 85mm f1.8, and a 120-300 f2.8 for most of my sports images. If the court has space I do use the 12-300 for basketball, which allows me to get images under the far basket, and those images, like the one above, of the players coming down the back court.
Monday, February 13, 2017
Changing exposure settings and just a few minutes apart can change the look of a scene and give you the opportunity to see things differently as you create images. I used Lightroom to process these images. and edited the settings, plus changing the exposure settings on the camera as I was shooting.. The way the clouds were moving in and out also changed the look of the image.
To create this image I turned and looked behind me and saw this beautiful sky , while photographing the moonrise. So another tip is to look behind you as you shoot a sunrise or sunset. With the right conditions the sky opposite the event can be very beautiful. This was the west view, at sunset, and the moonrise was in the eastern sky. The sun had already set, and this was the afterglow, which became very colorful because of the clouds.
Sunday, February 12, 2017
A Little Fun With Photoshop Timeline
Friday, February 10, 2017
Winter photography tips
Winter is nearly done, but there will probable be more snow. Many of the spring snowfalls are heavy and cling to trees, making for beautiful images. There can also be ice coating trees and other plants, this also makes for very interesting images.
To keep your camera dry you can use a large Ziplock bag (I like the 2.5 gallon size) to protect your gear. Also batteries don't last as long in the cold.
If I am outside , in cold weather, for a long period of time, I place the camera in the Ziplock bag when coming into the warm indoors. Place the camera, lenses, etc. in the bags and force as much air out as possible, while zipping them. Bring them inside and let them warm up for a couple hours. If you bring them indoors, without doing this, the gear can fog over and moisture can condense, possibly causing problems down the road. By putting the gear in a sealed bag, the condensation should be on the outside of the sealed bag, not the camera.
To keep your camera dry you can use a large Ziplock bag (I like the 2.5 gallon size) to protect your gear. Also batteries don't last as long in the cold.
If I am outside , in cold weather, for a long period of time, I place the camera in the Ziplock bag when coming into the warm indoors. Place the camera, lenses, etc. in the bags and force as much air out as possible, while zipping them. Bring them inside and let them warm up for a couple hours. If you bring them indoors, without doing this, the gear can fog over and moisture can condense, possibly causing problems down the road. By putting the gear in a sealed bag, the condensation should be on the outside of the sealed bag, not the camera.
NIK filters are a great addition to Photoshop filters and they are FREE.https://www.google.com/nikcollection/ You can use this link to download and install them, then have fun using them. When installed the can be found under Filters, in Photoshop.
This is one of many effects you can find in the filter pack. I encourage you to install them and try them out.
 |
| Original Color Image |
 |
| NIK Silver Efex Pro 2 filter applied |
This is one of many effects you can find in the filter pack. I encourage you to install them and try them out.
Thursday, February 9, 2017
Lunar Eclipse
This coming Friday, Feb. 10, 2017 there will be a lunar eclipse, which should be visible form Spirit Lake , and other areas of the Midwest. Photographing an eclipse can present some challenges. Use a tripod and remote release.
Manual focus is the way to go for this project. Focus to infinity. If your camera offers Mirror Lockup, use it to reduce the possibility of camera movement from the mirror activating. If you are using a mirrorless camera you are good to go.
Find a location where you can get a good view and have a interesting foreground and background, if possible.
Exposure is the fun part. I usually use the Spot meter. I meter on the moon and set the camera to those settings, in manual mode. As the eclipse progresses, the exposure will change, so meter as the moon is covered, and gets darker, during the eclipse. Since the moon, and the earth, are moving do not use really long shutter speeds. Doing so can lead to blurry images.
I will be shooting with two cameras, one with a wide angle, set to Interval Shooting to create a time lapse sequence. The second will have either my 100-400mm or 120-300mm zoom. The 120-300 is a 2.8 so that is what I will probably use, since it is easier to focus, and the 2.8 aperture helps maintain a higher shutter speed. Remember to turn off Image Stabilization when the camera is on the tripod. I suggest checking basic camera settings, such as M mode, ISO, and manual focus, before heading out. That way you will have less to set up when you get to your chosen location. I start at ISO 100 and raise as needed.
Take a flashlight along so you can see the camera controls, and where you are going, as you move to and from your location.
I will be shooting in RAW and editing in Lightroom. Take lots of images.
Make sure the batteries are fully charged, as the eclipse takes several hours. I will be dressing for the weather, as the temperature here will drop quickly as it gets dark.
Here is a link to a previous eclipse I photographed.
https://animoto.com/play/I5Vy0Zwrv3F17YLPgWqxUw
Manual focus is the way to go for this project. Focus to infinity. If your camera offers Mirror Lockup, use it to reduce the possibility of camera movement from the mirror activating. If you are using a mirrorless camera you are good to go.
Find a location where you can get a good view and have a interesting foreground and background, if possible.
Exposure is the fun part. I usually use the Spot meter. I meter on the moon and set the camera to those settings, in manual mode. As the eclipse progresses, the exposure will change, so meter as the moon is covered, and gets darker, during the eclipse. Since the moon, and the earth, are moving do not use really long shutter speeds. Doing so can lead to blurry images.
I will be shooting with two cameras, one with a wide angle, set to Interval Shooting to create a time lapse sequence. The second will have either my 100-400mm or 120-300mm zoom. The 120-300 is a 2.8 so that is what I will probably use, since it is easier to focus, and the 2.8 aperture helps maintain a higher shutter speed. Remember to turn off Image Stabilization when the camera is on the tripod. I suggest checking basic camera settings, such as M mode, ISO, and manual focus, before heading out. That way you will have less to set up when you get to your chosen location. I start at ISO 100 and raise as needed.
Take a flashlight along so you can see the camera controls, and where you are going, as you move to and from your location.
I will be shooting in RAW and editing in Lightroom. Take lots of images.
Make sure the batteries are fully charged, as the eclipse takes several hours. I will be dressing for the weather, as the temperature here will drop quickly as it gets dark.
Here is a link to a previous eclipse I photographed.
https://animoto.com/play/I5Vy0Zwrv3F17YLPgWqxUw
Wednesday, February 8, 2017
Upcoming video classes.
I am creating a series of online videos to teach the basics of Lightroom and Photoshop. If there are any things you would like to have me demonstrate, let me know Iowa Lakes Community College Continuing Education is working with me to test the concept of online continuing ed classes. These classes would be online for a period of time, during the time the registered students would have access to the course materials, plus they would have the ability to contact me with questions, during that time. I am hoping this becomes a viable option, as I have heard from numerous people that they are unable to attend the regular community ed classes because of work schedules.
Tuesday, February 7, 2017
Winter Games Fireworks 2017
Winter games 2017 was a great event, it snowed just in time to have fresh snow for the snowmobilers, and the temps were very nice to be outside on a winter day.
See the fireworks https://youtu.be/MJa5i9ak1Fs
See the fireworks https://youtu.be/MJa5i9ak1Fs
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